Need oblige next to canister filter?
I bought a Jebao 818 canister filter for my tank, and I would like to get it set up tonight so the sea can filter, and I can get my fish and tank set up quicker. There are four trays in it, 3 hold sponge-like filters in them and one is empty. 2 sponges are white and one is black. There is a daypack of these white things that look like packing peanuts, and another bag that has lots of little black cylinders. The one near the black cylinders is in a bag that has a zipper and is made of some cloth. The other is within a disposable plastic bag. I don't know where these things go, whether there is any order that the trays have to be within or whether or not to take the black cylinders out of the bag. Please help me out, in that are no instructions and the website does not have any either. I don't hold a clue here!
Answers: I've not used Jebao filters but most canister filters are similar surrounded by general construction and filter materials, though when you get more experienced you'll tend to customise the filter medium to your preference.
First, let's look at all the filter media components:
- white sponges: made of filter wool, used for powered filtration to trap small particles. Usually the first layer that the dirty water encounter, but some filters use it last. Ideally you should know which direction the water flows inside the filter so that you can position the appropriate medium for optimal performance. If the water flow starts filtering from the top, later put the white sponge (one is enough, the other as spare when you next do a change) as the last entry on the top tray. The white sponge will be the most frequently replaced item though you don't need to replace it that often if you squeeze it out contained by tank water (never clean filter medium using fresh tap water).
- black sponge: this is activated carbon, used for chemical filtration to remove dissolved impurities. You can put it after the white sponge. But carbon must be replaced roughly every 2-3 weeks after its absorption capacity is maxed out. Since we can't tell when that occur, just estimate. If you need to medicate the tank or whether keeping a planted tank & using liquid fertilisers, remove the carbon first. The carbon sponge is not very fundamental, suggest just use it for the initial 2 weeks after setup.
- black cylinders in cloth purse: the cloth bag is a filter bag for easy handling of filter bits and pieces, no need to remove. The cylinders and the packing peanut lookalikes should be some form of biological filtration media, usually rough to the touch. They provide a "home" for the favourable bacteria to colonise, more such bacteria helps to remove toxic stuff similar to ammonia & nitrites. Considered by many to be the most important type of filtration and the main strength of canister filter. You don't need to replace such media, just a rinse surrounded by tank water if it get too dirty, only at intervals of at least a few months. My preferred biological media is Biohome's sintered cup. These media work best as the last filter layer and beside slower water flow rates.
There are lots of possible combinations for your 4 trays. Usually one tray can contain 1 each of filter wool & carbon sponge, with the other 3 trays occupied with biological media, maybe the later tray only half filled and topped up beside another filter wool sponge. As the biological media are in filter bags, only shake it around to settle down in the tray and try to minimise leaving gaps.
I hope you bought a filter that can self-prime, otherwise existing pain to get the water flowing. The hoses, tap & other possible attachments should be self-explanatory even without a manual. The inlet siphon end should be covered near a sieve like attachment, if you have dwarf shrimps or newborn fish you may even need to cover the sieve with a small filter sponge or hairnet to prevent such small creatures being sucked surrounded by. The outlet end is usually a rainbar attachment, though not recommended for planted tank if the water agitation is excessive.
I personally prefer to also append a prefilter unit, to serve as additional mechanical filtration to trap even more particle. This means less chance for the leading filter to get clogged up and lengthens the time to require maintenance. When your filter is established, you deeply just need to keep up beside regular water changes or top ups without messing next to the filter for months.
Hope the above helps and you can get your filter up and running quickly.
There is no demand. White peanut like things I believe could be zeolite. Simply pit them in the empty tray and set it up.
Usually that tray is unfurnished so that you can put any choice of filter media.
