Need abet beside dampen interview. ?
nitrate - safe
nitrite - danger
hardness - change hard
total chlorine - safe
total alkalinity - ideal
ph - alkaline
CAN U GIVE ME A LIST " IN THE ORDER THE TEST ARE IN" OF WHAT I NEED AND/OR WHAT I NEED TO DO.
Ok...
First, test your ammonia. The presence of nitrites indicates your reservoir has not finished it's nitrogen cycle, or a recent addition of fish is causing too much rubbish for your biological filter to handle. There are 3 parts of the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate. Ammonia is deadliest. Nitrites bond to the blood and cause the blood cells to break down, which cause your fish to suffocate. Nitrates aren't all that bad. If you keep them below a specific amount 40ppm for most fish, 20ppm for some. I am assuming you're using a check strip. I would switch to liquid tests. They are more accurate and give better reading.
As for what to do:
Nitrate - nothing. It's fine for now. once your tank is cycled, do a 20% dampen change a week to keep this low.
Nitrate - Immediate water money. Since we don't know your ammonia levels, best to be safe and do a 50% change very soon, and do a 25% change every day until your tank is cycled. Once it is, the weekly 20% loose change will be enough. Another option is to get sea conditions that remove nitrites. Amquel or Prime do this. They also remove chlorine and chloramines. Keep in mind, using these chemicals will slow down your cycling process, but may be required if you enjoy fish in your tank.
Hardness - Tap water is knotty. Nothing to do about that. Just keep this in intellect on what type of fish you keep. I wouldn't keep any fish that like really soft river. If you want to soften the water up, I would replace some of the water near distilled or RO water during your water changes.
Total Chlorine - well-mannered. Keep using your water conditioners.
Total Alkalinity - this is your water's KH. Carbonate Hardness. It's a pH buffer. It prevents your water from changing pH too speedily. Ideal is good.
pH - this means your water have a value greater than 7.2 It may be closer to 7.5 or 8. It's not an issue unless you have fish that like bitter water.
you can keep most of theses problems in match by doing a 105 water change every week and changing the filter tabloid every 3 weeks.
because you never said what fish your looking after i can't help you with your water firmness and ph balance.
it's don;t matter what order you do your question paper. you can deal with your nitrite problem by cleaning any debris surrounded by the tank.
also you don;t have a ammonia test ammonia is the broken down publication of nitrite and that is what causes your fish to die.
D.are u doin this for the turtles...tap water is in recent times fine..
No tests needed for them.
adding fish to the turtles water you obligation 'amquel' to treat the water so the feeders don't go belly up.
level on the test strip should be 7.0 in the yellow, I believe is the color.
=^ )
And sorry for answering ..whether this is not regarding the turtles.
mom to 5 sliders
I am unsure of what you are asking but if you have the primary ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kit you should be fine. I would not mess with the pH at adjectives. Fish are farm raised and used to different levels of pH and become modifiable to what you have. Changing pH and those high and low swings will kill them faster than not messing near it at all.
bring a sample of your water into a store that specializes within fish and they will test it and tell you everything you need to know! thats wat i did
what you need?
what do you mean by what you call for?
what levels they should be?
what other tests you need?
BTW... pH have to be a number.. "alkaline" tells us next to nothing
cut: you used 'whom' improperly
Answers: nitrate - risk-free
nitrite - danger
hardness - vary concrete
total chlorine - safe
total alkalinity - ideal
ph - alkaline
**It looks like your container is still going through the cycle process. So here is what you need / need to do:
1. nitrate--since your tests are still reading nitrite level, do not be concerned with this now
2. nitrite--when nitrite is showing high amounts you requirement to do frequent water changes. Try to change approx. 25% of the river every 2-3 days, testing your water each time. The hope is to get the nitrites down to zero. Once you get within, do a large (50-75% water change). Do not add any brand new fish while you have nitrite readings. If you already have fish surrounded by the tank, feed them very lightly--at most once a daytime, and skipping a day every other day is even better since their poop after eating can bring to the fore your nitrite levels.
3. Hardness--This level determines the amount of dissolved minerals (such as calcium) that are in your hose. Hard water is perfect for African cichlids. If you have other fish, such as South Americans, you may obligation to soften your water. You can do this by using reverse osmosis water or distilled wet during water changes. You can also buy a product called the "API sea softener pillow" which may be inserted into your filter.
4. Total chlorine--if you are in the safe zone, that is surefire! Chlorine can kill your fish. To keep it in this variety, be sure to add water conditioner (such as Amquel) respectively time the water is changed.
5. Total Alkalinity--this test measures whether your water is closer to an tart or a base. If the test measures "ideal" most likely your wet is right in between acid and base or "neutral". Most fish will thrive within this type of water. Unless you plan on keeping African cichlids, do nothing. If you do want Africans, you can add some crushed coral to the gravel to backing raise alkalinity
6. PH--this is similar to total alkalinity. You may want to get a separate test paraphernalia just for PH so that you get a number reading. Most kits means between 6.0 and 9.0. The higher the number, the more alkaline your water is. Fish such as guppies and South American cichlids do well contained by PHs around 6.5-6.8, while African cichlids are best at higher levels (around 8 or 9). You can purchase powders at your local fish store or pet shop to raise or lower the PH. Just read up on what type of fish you hold and what PH is best for them.
