Advice of roll back and slide stops?
I'm an english rider... very english with a background surrounded by track work (gallopers) i've only ever really ridden dressage and jumpers for my self... and recently purchased an appaloosa gelding, who i own been training to hack and jump. and he is doing very okay... however it occurs to me, some one in his past have taught him some western moves, as he slides stops when i ask for a halt (which i have been using as a sort of emergency brake) and will roll stern when i move around in the arena. I do not want to train these things out of him, but want to know what sort of "buttons" i should press to get the best slide stop and roll back... I do not hold access to a western trainer as all the trainers around me are dressage or jumpers of some form and have no clue what my appy is doing... So i guess i'm asking for some tips of how to gain my appy to slide stop and roll back properly and any other movements i could ask for which may have been trained into him... I own considered doing western pleasure or alike with him... but its so hard with out any trainers close by.. resourcefully love any advice... thanks
Uh... The biggest mistake made beside roll backs is that you need to stop before you roll backbone.
And stops, make sure you really sit down and back.
My first advice is to be certain he is wearing skid boots and splint boots before you do much of this. My second advice is to procure some instruction from a trainer, riding a finished reining horse, so you get the feel for this before you ask your own horse to do it. It would be worth going a distance to catch proper instruction so that whatever you do with your horse doesn't confuse him.
I bet whether you knew where to look, there is a western trainer where on earth or near you are at! Contact you local college and speak with their Equine coach. They usually do both Western and English. Both disciplines are so closely blended very soon that you are off to a good start. western uses a lot of leg to gather the horse up into a collected frame just like Dressage. Get that bellybutton up to the spine! This will drop the horses head into the needed rank position, and allow it to step up under itself to do flying leads and stops. The stops are kinda tricky because you need to surface when they are beginning to reach under and later ask for whoa. They also need sliders on and boots for their legs so they don't burn while sliding through the sand. Turns aren't as bad, but if you rush you can produce a "hop" instead of a nice realize, so I would suggest you find someone to help you-type in Quarter horse or Paint horse trainers/breeders and I bet you will find someone that can aid! Good Luck and Keep trying new things!
I would contact the preceding owners and ask for the cues which he uses or ask if you could have the contact information from his trainer so you can ask him/her about their training.also put sport boots or splint boots on his front legs and ask your farrier going on for shoes...you need different shoes for reining...i think Slide Plates...and they are put on the back foot so that they can slide without as much friction...also skid boots on the back legs cover the fetlock joint and prevent sand/dirt burn from the motion of a sliding stop...whether you dont get skid boots then you should definitely procure sport boots for his back legs as well...Reining is hard on the tendons and joint...so boots are very important...
Professional's Choice makes amazing boots...check these links out...
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Good Luck (GO WESTERN!)
BB
Answers: A finished reining horse has be trained to ride one-handed on loose rein or at light contact with your hand on (and never leaving) his nouns. He should be able to do large fast circles at a mitt gallop, small slow circles at a slow collected lope, flying lead changes at either speed, spin, rundown, slide stop, subsidise up, and rollback. He will steer primarily with legs and be very light.
He will frame and collect beside a low head, and this is cued by one or more of a) lifting the reins slightly, b) patting him with both legs, c) spurring insubstantially or hard in the belly near both legs. This works at the stop (which is critical to getting a reiner set up to work) and at any gait.
For the sake of the horse, spins and sliding stops should be avoided on a horse with regular shoes. A reining horse needs sliding plates as the hind shoes. These reduce friction and serve preserve the joints in the back legs. In appendix, these maneuvers are best performed on a good arena surface with a fluffy top band and a smooth packed underlayer. All these precautions help prevent short and long term lameness contained by the reining horse.
The sliding stop is the culmination of a maneuver that starts with either a prior rollback or a lead translation in the center of the arena. The horse is loped up one side of the arena and then turned to be about 20 foot off the rail down the other side. For many reining horses, the hugely action of loping that far from the rail is a signal to the rundown, so don't agree to him get away from you.
At this point the rundown is intended to be a smooth acceleration across three to six speeds that culminates in a speed close to the full gallop. You want to stop the horse when he is accelerate. Sweep your legs apart and say "whoa". You need to curl slightly forward and "melt into the horse". You necessitate to give the horse enough rein to be able to hold his front feet moving and pulling him through the stop without letting him think the stop is over. The horse's hindquarters will come down and the stop will originate. It can go further than 20 feet with a worthy stopping horse being ridden well on a good surface, wearing sliders.
As the stop finishes, the rollback can open. Not all stops are followed by a rollback. Some are the end of the pattern, some are followed by support up. But when the rollback is the desired next step, here's what needs to happen.
The horse wishes a chance to get his feet pay for under himself. With a deep stop, his hooves are near his stomach button. It will take a moment for him to stand back up enough to do the rollback. Ideally, he still have a slight crouch when you cue the rollback.
A rollback is a quick, single motion 180 degree turn on the hindquarters that blends into a slow-circle speed lope. In reining horses this is cued behind the cinch nearly as if cueing a lope, but with the blocking leg open. Rollbacks are other to the outside, which is one reason to stop 20 feet from the guardrail. Lift up the reins slightly, get contact with the mouth enough to hold the turn so it is a pivot on the hindquarters, cue the turn and, at 180 degree, use a light seat movement to push the horse into the lope.
Spins are done also as a turn on the hindquarters, again, really fast. The front legs are intended to trot through the maneuver, though some hold been trained to spin at a lope. Start with the horse at rest, framed up with team leader down on light contact. Look in the direction of the spin, open the leg contained by the direction of the spin and press the outside spur into the horse at the midsection. As the spin starts, hold the spur for about as quarter turn and then steal both legs off. The speed may increase at this point. Keep enough rein pressure on to ensure the horse is spinning around the hindquarters. Spin for 3 to 10 rotations. Then open your legs and vote "whoa".
You can watch what I think is the best of these maneuvers at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIzT59LrP...
A good set of training video can be obtained from http://www,horsetrainingvideos.com
A good book is "World Class Reining": http://www.amazon.com/World-Class-Reinin...
The National Reining Horse organization has a PDF pattern book and other documents at http://www.nrha.com/forms.php
If you really want to rein with your horse, find a suitable farrier and get him a set of plates on the back. Don't overdo stops, rollbacks or spins. And keep within mind that reining is very strenuous and hard on the horse. An hour a year, five days a week is the most you want to be doing.
A reiner can also be used for Western pleasure, but you will probably not want him to be using that extremely slow Western pleasure lope that looks like a limp - or you may ruin his small slow circles. Also, you will want to make certain he frames up with his head low.
Good luck!
