Bit for a strong OTTB?
My uncle has a 7 year old Thoroughbred mare off the track for two years very soon. She's very calm and you can do anything with her apart from for when you get her into a canter. She's very strong and everyone has trouble pulling her up, we can control her newly not pull her up. We put her in foal last year and she have a lovely colt otherwise we've just been riding around the property. She's well put together and we are adjectives planning to start taking her to some local Ag shows.
This is the problem, shes a little to strong for us to take her to a show. Shes currently in a tom thumb snaffle, because it be fine on my old tb mare but its not strong enough for her. So what bits do you suggest? Prefebly cheap and also I live within Australia so they have to be available here.
You're describing what we see in a lot of horses that own spent much time on the track, and it's also a fact that some horses are just born with a short time less sensitive mouths. You can spend years working on your hands and legs and not "pulling on her mouth", but if she's really cold-jawed you of late need to switch from a jointed snaffle - which is what a tom thumb is(only with low shanks & a curb chain or strap), to a bit near more leverage and a solid port. The next step up would be a Kimberwick - which you can get with a snaffle mouthpiece or a straight or curb block, and it has a curb chain. It sounds like she would probably stipulation a solid bar with a low port, and you could adjust the curb chain as loosely as she will warranty while still having as much control as you need. This is a great bit for a lot of horses - the individual drawback is that it's not allowed in dressage shows. If that's not enough, you can run all the way to a Pelham, which also has a solid dowel with or without a port, and shanks that can be very short or outstandingly long, depending upon the degree of control you need. It also has a curb tie up that you can adjust to fit your needs. This one is a lot of bit though and has to be ridden beside 2 hands. The Kimberwick has 2 slots on the bit rings so you can attach your reins higher or lower to get hold of less or more leverage, and isn't as apt to artificially bend a horse at the poll as the pelham can. I'd try that - I think you'll be shocked at the different. I've had antiquated geldings off the track that have no feeling gone and when you put them in a low port Kimberwick they become light as a feather and a elation to ride.
It's not just about the bit it's about training. In my estimation the horse needs to be trained to give to the bit beside pressure and release methods.. It needs to learn to give laterally, and at the poll. I would than work on one rein stops.
A more sever bit is not the answer I would bet that inside a very short time the horse would learn to run through that bit as well.
By the means of access a Tom Thumb is a pretty sever bit contrary to most peoples opinion.
If you are pulling on the reins of a Tom Thumb that is what we call a Tom Thumb within the US, and which you may not realize is a very severe bit to be pulling on, you won't be able to control her by getting an even more severe bit to pull on. Again, whether you are using the type of Tom Thumb used here, then at this point, your horse has no mouth left. She desires to be trained to stop on your seat and leg cues, or she will continue running through whatever bits you try. My suggestion is to find a knowledgeable trainer to work with your horse, and you need to pinch some lessons and learn how to properly slow and stop a horse without pulling on the reins.
Add.I believe the Australian Tom Thumb is an extended cheek, not a full cheek, snaffle, and can't be used near bit keepers. If that is what you are using, then you can stay next to that bit while you work on more seat and leg to stop the horse. If you choose to stay with a jointed mouth snaffle, be sure you solitary engage one rein at a time, since this is how a jointed mouth snaffle is designed to be used. Also, you can go to a full cheek snaffle and use bit keepers for the slight poll leverage that it add. In my experience, the only way to retrain an OTTB that works consistently is to teach them to work bad legs and seat cues, which is something they have no memory of to interfere with it's value. Bit engagement, on the other hand, reminds them to run.fast.
I would ask a qualified instructor to watch me ride him and see what they propose :)
Before you start the upward spiral into stronger and stronger bits, try more training. Race horses are trained to go strong 'into the bit' at speed.
She must enjoy a very competitive nature to respond as she does after two years bad the track. You're rushing her.
Give her more time to UN-learn being a race horse.
tom thumb creates a gag... very itchy but also very easy for your horse to lean into and *not* stop. please get rid of it! no horse should be ridden contained by a tom thumb!
racehorses are often run in gags so that they can lean into the bit and run faster. This site have tips on how to use bits properly, and explains the problem with the tom thumb.
http://www.kbrhorse.net/tra/bits01.html
I would put her in a curb or a snaffle and get some directions on how to stop her properly. I'm not saying you're not a good rider, and I know how difficult OTTBs can be, but maybe get hold of a trainer to see where it is that the "whoah" signal is not getting through :) I'm hesitant to propose pully reins or disengagement without seeing the problem.
Answers: I'm assuming you're using the Australian tom thumb, which is equivalent to the American full cheek snaffle, an excellent bit for an OTTB. Make sure you're using the keepers properly; they assist contained by control.
If you can, get one with a stronger mouthpiece, such as a Dr. Bristol, or even stronger, a Dr. Bristol with a slow verbs. the Dr. B has an extra little bean shaped link contained by the center joint, which doesn't lay completely flat. The bit fits the mouths of many horses better, and is perfectly comfortable until you stipulation it. Then it provides just a little extra incentive. This act on the tongue. The slow twist is a pressure increase on the lips and bars - comfortable to pass, but there if you need the incentive.
You could also try a baucher snaffle, which provides a slight bit more pressure through the poll than the full cheek.
In the US, racers are trained to move about faster when you pull on the reins. To stop them, do a pull and release, pull and release sign. If that doesn't work, turn her in a small circle.
The only way to gross her safe to show is to get her stopping consistently at home. A bit can't do that alone. Training, working, practice, practice, practice.
Good Luck!
My experience with OTTB's is that you can not work over their mouth ample to stop them, not matter what bit you use. They are trained to lean into that pressure and go faster. Instead, try to teach a different cue for stopping. As you put your foot, think about closing your knee and upper leg on her. Sit down harder on your form bones, contract your abs and shift your shoulders slightly back. Lastly, touch her mouth lightly but with out any follow and halt. As she get used to listening to these "pre-cues" she should begin to shut down before you stipulation to use your hands. Practice this walking, then trotting, then try it at the canter. If you find that she starts pulling on you, do what comes lowest possible naturally. Give her some slack in the reins, then steal it up, then give it back. TBs approaching to lean, so refusing to participate in the tugging will probably grasp her to back off of you. (not in the covering that she is spooking though!)
Both good answers, if she is manageable the rest of the time afterwards you just need to overcome her instinct kicking surrounded by at canter. I would use voice commands a lot - a good loud Whoa sometimes help, and it would be worth trying some nose or/and poll control, I would put a controlling headcollar or natural horsemanship rope halter on along with her bridle and tie the front rope around her neck where you can grab it and verbs - I did this with my strong mare, I called it my "emergency brake" and it worked a treat, it also wasn't needed after a few times, the "whoah" and a strong pull be enough. Good luck with her, she sounds lovely!
I, similar to you have an OTTB..She is amazing in every way but after riding ehr for nearly four ears I've academic some tricks that work for her..and most other OTTbs that i know. The first think, like others ahve mentioned is that they are trained to go faster when you verbs, and in essence lean on your hands..With my mare, if i rop the reins to the buckle she will nearly always stop. I've also found that getting her to relax, and work in a long and low frame(and by frame i dont just connote headset..her whole body is round, she's through her back and working from her hind end) seems to serve a lot. Before i even get on, since she is incrediblt spooky and evasive at times, I walk her around the arena, making certain that her head stays low and she is by my side...after all, head up, final down=adrenaline...head down, back up,=endorphins..the endorphins are what you want..theyre a hormone that causes relaxation and make your horse feel good..I also teach my horse to pay for up with her head down and do a turn on the forhand and haunches and trotting in hand(with commander low) from the ground. All these things eventually, after lots of practice(i do this 10-15 min groundwork session each time i ride or she starts to ignore me) your horse will learn that not individual are you the boss, but, since most OTTBs are nervous and self conscious, it will teach them that you will always be in attendance to tell them waht to do and that theres no need to be scared. Now, once youre organized to get on your horse they'll be semi-warmed up and better for your ride..
In regards to a bit-choice, i've found the softer the better..my mare is in a simple d-ring snaffle, but whether your horse cannot tolerate a snaffle then a french-link may be a better choice as it eliminated the nut-cracker action surrounded by the roof of the mouth that a lot of horses, especially TBsd, can be sensitive to as they can have small mouths..
When riding, i would focus on doind A LOT of transitions, circles and serpentines to draw from the hors balanced and keep them interested..Be sure to hold that low headset for now, until he/she learns to carry himself.. Your reins shouldnt be crazy or tingh, just enough to feel the corners of the horses mough and no more..
even whether he/she takes off, you dont want to pull..a moment ago ride calmly and sit there quietly and do a circle until he calm down..once hes being dgood..prainse and GET OFF! dont rty to einforce it yet..he'll remember the last piece that you did before you got off..so once its honourable..be done fot the day.
Then the next time you ride.same thing
anyways hope this adjectives helped:))
al
I have a 14 year old TB gelding. He is exceptionally strong and someone recommended that I ride him in a Port Mouth Pelham... BIG mistake, I have him bucking, rearing and taking off even more than before. I switched to a Happy Mouth Snaffle and he was model afterwards... Often people think, strong horse = strong bit, which often make the situation worse. First of all, you should have her teeth checked, once that is done, any ask a qualified instructor what their opinion is, or switch to a softer bit. I owned a 17h TB a few years back, also strong as hell, the lady I bought him from rode him within a pelham and after 2 months, I had him in a loose ring snaffle and he was as dutiful as gold... One other thing, may sound strange, but it also help to have their backs checked and that the saddle fits 100%... There could be an underlying problem which you would never have thought of...
