Is it run of the mill for a boa constrictor to travel into its sea container and of late chill for more or less a week?
and any other first time snake owner tips u wanna throw at me?
=)
It's not good for an RTB to be in the river that long. If he's in there for more then 3 days you entail to put a smaller water dish in the tank. It is usual for an RTB to like water, but not stay in in attendance for a week. He's most likely fine.
I'm not the snake expert but I do know a little bit. just about any experince really, just got a king snake yesterday but have have garter snakes in the past . you probably need to hold more humidity in the tank. you can use an old butter container, clean it out real good and I read you can put peat moss in near but you have to cut a hole in the top of the container and probably mist it. I also read u can use wet through paper towls but you need to keep them clammy also. I dont think you the cage over heated so you dont have to verbs about that. 1 of the reasons why you need humidity is to give support to the snake shed and that might be another reason why the snake is in the water so much. you can report to by the snakes eyes when its gettin ready to shed. theyll be milky colored. DO NOT HANDLE THE SNAKE WHEN ITS GETTING READY TO SHED. it will strike at you. for your own safety leave it alone. also after it eat do not handle it for 24-48 hours. I know and read that but i also herd that it might strike you during the time its digesting the food. do not put it in sand or corn bedding and pine. DO NOT FEED IT IN THE CAGE if not everytime you stick your hand in the cage it will deliberate you have food and most likely attack. I dont know to much about boas but thats broad for most snakes. If you don't know that much about them then you need to read on them from multiple websites or you can drop by expertvillage.com if you rather watch video. I found them more helpful than any other website.
Not really. You probably need to significantly increase the humidity in the work area. If that is not the problem he probably has a mite infestation.
Yes its normal. It usually resources that he/she is about to shed. You can also tell by a cloudiness in the eyes, or a pinkish color on the stomach. My boas normally stay in the water for hours previously the move at all.
Answers: There are a few reasons your boa may be doing this.
It is getting ready to shed, even with the proper humidity surrounded by the cage.
If you do not have a hide availible, they purloin to the water dish to feel secure.
It have mites, this is a major problem and can be a chore to fix.
You will have to remove everthing. Throw away the substrate, treat the accseroires and snake. Provenet-A-Mite or Fontline pray ar what I reccomend for treatment.
Here is genreal effort
Housing – While young boas can be housed in small enclosures, you must be prepared to supply a much larger enclosure for an adult. The rule here is “the bigger, the better.” Ideally, you should provide an enclosure at tiniest 6’L X 2’W X 2’H. The idea is to provide your animal with ample room to stretch out, and for a temperature range within its environment. Adult adjectives and red tailed boas should not be kept in fish tanks!! You will need to supply a water dish large enough for the entire snake to soak within, some form of hiding space such as cork bark or a hide box, and some climbing branches will be readily utilized by these snakes. You can use paper, outdoor carpeting, cypress or aspen mulch,coconut fiber,alfalfa (rabbit) pellet, even potting soil that does not contain perlite as a substrate. Irregardless of what substrate you use, it is vital that you keep it clean.
Hiding Place
A hole should be provided for Boas. A half-log (available at pet stores), an empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both next to an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when dirty and replaced with a new one. Many Boas enjoy lifeless out on branches; provide clean branches big enough to support the Boa's weight. If you use a found department, soak first in the bleach/water solution, then clean hose down to thoroughly rinse; place in cage only when completely dry. If you use rocks and bricks to construct a pothole, be sure to affix them firmly in place. Boas are very strong, and can glibly topple such a structure when moving about. When the rocks tumble on the snake, severe injuries may result
Lighting and Heating:
Your boa will need a source of daytime lighting which can be provided by using a reptile daytime spot lighting. This will also provide a source of heat and a basking spot. You may also wish to supply a nighttime bulb or ceramic heater to maintain the warmth at night without the bright light which would disturb the snake at hours of darkness. Do not use a white light at night! You should provide an overall enclosure heat of 80-85°F with a basking spot around 95°F. Night time temperatures can drop to 75-80°F. If using neutral bulbs for heat, be sure that they are placed in such a passageway that the snake cannot contact any hot surfaces. You can also provide heat through under tank heaters and specialty reptile heat platforms. Be sure to use a thermoregulator to allow for better control over the temperature. The heated area does have need of to be large enough for the entire snake to bask. A small spot of heat will not be adequate for a large snake.
NOTE: UVb for boas is usually considered unnecessary but I still recommend it. I use full spectrum plant & aquarium fluorescent bulbs or 2.0 fluorescent reptile bulbs -these provide very low level of UVa & UVb.
Humidity: The common boas require a high relative humidity around 55%-75%. Maintaining this level of humidity will give support to to avoid illnesses and also aid the snake in shedding properly.
Here is a good online care sheet, it covers merely about everthing.
It is in PDF format and can be down loaded.
http://www.redtailboas.com/care/TheUltim...
